Growing South African Indigenous epiphytic orchids

 

A few notes on Growing South African Indigenous epiphytic orchids.

Jumellea walleri

Our South African Indigenous epiphytic orchids can either be grown on mounts as they grow in nature on trees or in pots however the majority in particular the angreacoides with large fleshy roots do far better with their roots fully exposed where they get both light and fresh air movement around them which is most important for healthy growth. 

Gold award winning Mystacidium braybonae with masses of healthy roots

Some of our orchids, in particular the lithophytic orchids that grow on rocks and some Polystachya species will do well in pots. The choice depends very much on which species one is wanting to grow.

Mounts

Mounts can be made of branches cut from trees, driftwood, pieces of hardwood such as Teak and balau. Mounts can also be made from plastic mesh that are sown into flat bags and filled with suitable pine bark, coconut husk moss or other suitable material which most grow well on, however they do not look very nice. For some orchids a plastic pipe with large holes drilled into it filled with coco husk chips is a very suitable mount , 

Vanilla roscheri grow exceptionally well on such a mount

Vanilla roscheri grow exceptionally well on such a mount placed in a large pot so that the roots can grow down into the growing medium in the pot. My own preference is teak when available, when not Balau also makes long lasting mounts that my pants grow well on.

Mystacidium pusillum growing indoors under LED lights

Pots and potting medium

Plastic pots are now the norm for growing orchids in pots and more recently clear plastic orchid pots are available which benefit Angraecoid Orchids with large fleshy roots that photosynthesize. As a growing medium I have the best results with many of the orchids growing them on blocks of differing sizes depending on the amount of ventilation the roots of each species grown need when grown in pots, cut from both teak and balau wood. Belau wood which is from various Shorea species  is also known as Bangkirai wood.

Ansellia africana growing indoors

For lithophytes such as Tridactyle bicaudata subsp. rupestris, Rangaeris muscicola Polystachya pubescens and a few others, I use sandstone chips which they grow very well on. Sandstone chips in various sizes can be bought from suppliers of landscaping materials.

 

Tridactyle bicaudata subsp. rupestris growing in full sun

When to repot

The best time to split or repot monopodial growth orchids such as the angreacoides is when the plants are in active growth having just initiated new root growth. With Sympodial growth orchids they must be split or repotted just as the  new pseudobulbs start forming from the base of the previous pseudobulb.

If orchid plants are split in their dormant period many species become very dehydrated or even die before the new growth starts.

Watering

This is the most problematic factor to define when growing orchids. There are so many factors to consider that vary from plant to plant and from area to area where the plants are being grown. The only advice I can give is to watch and get to know the growth requirements of  the plants being grown and water to satisfy the plant’s needs. The watering requirements will vary in response to weather conditions, the time of year and the stage of growth of the plants. With good observation and experience, one will master this difficult aspect of growing vigorous healthy orchid plants.

Cyrtorchis praetermissa subsp. zuluensis

Most of my local indigenous orchid plants are growing indoors and get watered everyday year around and occasionally twice a day in the hottest summer days when I have fans running. In the hot summer months, they get watered with room temperature tap water and in the cooler months they get watered with hot water out of  the geyser. The plants growing outdoors get watered most days when they have not received rain in the summer months and once or twice a week during the cooler winter months.

It is important that the plants are drenched at each watering.

Feeding

Feeding of our indigenous orchids is most important for vigorous and healthy growth. Because they come out of the bush where no one feeds them is no reason to not feed them in cultivation if one wants to grow healthy plants.

Microcoelia obovata growing indoors under LED lights in flower

I feed my plants with a vast range of different plant feeds and growth promoting agents such as Marinure, Seagro, Nitrosol, hydroponic plant feed, black tea, rooibos tea, cinnamon tea, using a different feed every week. Marinure, Seagro, Nitrosol, hydroponic plant feed I apply at 25 percent of the recommended application rate. For black green and rooibos tea one teabag per 5 liters of water. For cinnamon tea a few sticks of true cinnamon sticks are soaked in boiling water per 5 liters of water.

True Cinnamon is the inner bark of the tree, Cinnamomum verum belonging to the plant family Lauraceae.

Occasionally the plants should be soaked for at least 15 minutes in a bucket of clean water if grown indoors to prevent the harmful build up of salts in and on the plant and on the mount that can lead to sudden death if not removed.

Light

The amount of light that epiphytic orchids species require varies considerably from species to species from full sun to deep forest shade therefore it is vital to know the light requirements of the orchid species one intends to grow if one intends to grow good healthy plants that flower well. As a rule of thumb orchids that grow fully exposed to the sun will grow under 50 percent shade cloth and plants that grow in deep forest shade will survive under 50 to 80 percent shade. In both cases the plants will not grow to their full potential.

Ansellia africana growing indoors with pure yellow flowers

Orchid plants grow better, are more healthy and are less prone to fungal and bacterial diseases if grown under a well-constructed lath roof than under shade cloth.

All the orchid plants that I have trialed indoors under artificial lighting using general purpose LED light strips have grown very well.

Ventilation and spacing of plants.

Good ventilation is essential for growing epiphytic orchids in particular in the hot and humid summer months, in particular if grown indoors. During the summer the windows remain open day and night and I have fans running from first light until about 2100 hrs in the evening, I have the fans running to ensure good air movement. To assist in the plants getting adequate light and ventilation which considerably reduces fungus and bacterial attack, the plants must be placed on a slatted or mesh covered bench and have plenty of space between them. Failure to do this will result in constant infestations of fungal and bacterial diseases and the total loss of plants.

Prevention and treatment of Fungus and bacteria diseases

When growing orchid plants prevention is far better than cure, once and orchid plant has become infected by a fungal or bacterial disease it is often very difficult to cure it. In advanced cases it is far better to place the plant in a plastic bag, tie it up and put the plant in the bin. I find regular preventative spraying with a fungicide such as Dithane M45 which is an organic broad-spectrum protectant fungicide alternated with Benomyl together with good plant hygiene keeps my plants free of disease.

Aerangis mystacidii growing indoors in low light in flower

Virus infection.

There is no cure for virus infections, immediately destroy suspected infected plants because virus can spread fast through and entire orchid collection making it valueless. Here prevention is the only cure.

Scale and mealie bug.

Both scale insects and mealie bugs attack orchid plants so keep a good look out for infestations and spray immediately. As a precaution it is advisable to spray the entire collection every couple of months to keep the plants pest free. There are many suitable insecticides on the market that are relatively nontoxic to pets and to humans.

Treatment of new plants

Be very careful when obtaining new plants, never accept or introduce unhealthy plants into your collection in the hope you may be able to save them, this could and probably will end up in tears

All new plants brought into my collection are kept separate from my collection where they are first inspected then soaked in a suitable insecticide for 10 to 15 minutes followed after a day or two by being soaked in a solution of Benomyl, followed by a soaking in a solution of Dithane M45 a day later. Only thereafter are they introduced to the other plants. It pays to be safe rather than to be sorry.

Orchid roots

Strong healthy roots are the key to growing healthy orchid plants. Just a glance at the roots of an orchid plant gives a very good indication of how well the plant has been grown and how healthy it is.

 

Good healthy orchid roots

I  have the following orchid species growing well indoors

Acampe pachyglossa Aerangis kirkii Aerangis mystacidii Angraecum cultriforme Bulbophyllum sandersonii Bulbophyllum scaberulum Bulbophyllum longiflorum Cheirostylis nuda Ansellia africana Bolusiella maudiae Cyrtorchis arcuate Cyrtorchis praetermissa subsp. Zuluensis Diaphananthe millarii Eulophia clitellifera Eulophia parviflora Eulophia petersii Eulophia streptopetala Microcoelia aphylla Microcoelia exilis Microcoelia obovata Mystacidium aliceae

Mystacidium capense Mystacidium gracile Mystacidium venosum Oeceoclades lonchophylla Oeceoclades maculata Polystachya concreta Polystachya fusiformis Polystachya modesta Polystachya ottoniana Polystachya pubescens Polystachya sandersonii Polystachya tayloriana Polystachya valentina Rangaeris muscicola Rhipidoglossum rutilum Stenoglottis fimbriata Stenoglottis inandensis Stenoglottis woodii Tridactyle bicaudata subsp. rupestris Tridactyle tridentata Vanilla roscheri

ALL that I have written above applies to most foreign epiphytic orchids.

 

Some technical data on the two fungicides that I use.

Mancozeb (dithiocarbamate) 800 g / kg MANCOZEB 80% WP

DOW AGROSCIENCES

Contact fungicide with protective and curative action.

DITHANE M-45™ 800 WP NT. TOXICOLOGICAL INFORMATION

Toxicological information appears in this section when such data is available.

Acute toxicity Acute oral toxicity

Very low toxicity if swallowed. Harmful effects not anticipated from swallowing small amounts.

As product:

LD50, Rat, > 5 000 mg/kg

Acute dermal toxicity

Prolonged skin contact is unlikely to result in absorption of harmful amounts

 

Acute toxicity to fish

very toxic to aquatic organisms

Slightly toxic to birds.

Not toxic to bees.

15 to 20 g / 10 l water

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Benomyl (benzimidazole)

A wettable powder systemic fungicide

Toxic to fish.

20 g / 10 l water

PREVENTION OF RESISTANCE

To avoid or delay the emergence of resistant fungal strains it is recommended that BENOMYL

be mixed at recommended rates with a fungicide having a different mode of action from that of

the Benzimidazoles.

 

 Article written by Michael Hickman on the 

04..05.24

Please visit my websites at

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www.hlem.co.za

https://www.hlem.co.za/indigenous_plants/plants.html

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African Monarch Butterfly and Host plant Balloon Milkweed

 

African Monarch Butterfly Danaus chrysippus orientalis and Balloon Milkweed Gomphocarpus physocarpus

The African monarch Danaus chrysippus orientalis butterfly which is widespread in Asia, Australia and Africa belongs to the Danainae subfamily of the family Nymphalidae, is a medium-sized very attractive butterfly with a wingspan of between 7–8 cm.

Larval food plants

In Durban the larval host plants of the African monarch Danaus chrysippus are from the plant family Apocynaceae, in particular Asclepiadoideae, Gomphocarpus physocarpus, and Stapelia gigantea being two of them.

Gomphocarpus physocarpus Balloon Milkweed

Gomphocarpus physocarpus which belongs to the vast milk plant family, Apocynaceae, is one of many host plants in its range of distribution but is probably the main host plant in the Durban area for the African Monarch butterfly, which both feeds on the nectar in the flowers and lays its eggs on the plant.

The caterpillars which are immune to the poisonous alkaloids in Gomphocarpus, have developed the ability to store them and pass them on to the pupa and adult butterfly, which use them to their own advantage making them foul-tasting and poisonous to predators. 

The protection strategy of Gomphocarpus has thus been effectively used by the African monarch for its own protection.

Distribution and habitat of Gomphocarpus physocarpus

Gomphocarpus physocarpus is widespread in South Africa, occurring in the Western Cape, Eastern Cape, Kwa-Zulu Natal, Mpumalanga, Gauteng, Limpopo, North West, as well as in Swaziland, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Mozambique and northwards to Kenya. It is found growing in grassland and bushveld, often along roadsides and in disturbed areas, from the coast to 900 m above sea level. Although naturalized and widespread in South Africa for some time, it is an introduced weed, native to tropical Africa.

The seeds are dispersed by wind, aided by the tuft of silky hairs attached to each seed.

Uses

Gomphocarpus physocarpus is widely used in traditional medicine in South Africa. The roots are used to treat stomachache. Leaves are dried and ground into a powder that is taken as snuff for headaches. The milky latex is used to treat warts. Seeds are blown away from the pods as a charm to placate the ancestors. The stems are used for fiber. Fresh stems and leaves stuffed into mole holes are said to be an effective deterrent. This plant is poisonous if ingested and has caused death to sheep fed large amounts.

Gomphocarpus physocarpus is an attractive quick growing yet short lived plant for the indigenous garden that attracts masses of a large variety of insects to its showy flowers that produce plenty of nectar. 

The showy flowers are followed by large bladder like fruits that when mature split to release hundreds of seeds that float on the air under shiny silk parachutes.

To have masses of these very attractive butterflies in your garden all you have to do is buy a few plants from your local nursery, be given some seedlings from a friend that has them or collect and plant your own seed which germinates and grows without much attention.

Article written by Michael Hickman on the 

30.04.24

Please visit my websites at

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https://www.hlem.co.za/indigenous_plants/plants.html

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https://luthulienvironment.blogspot.com/

 

Vanilla roscheri

Family:  Orchidaceae

 

The flower of Vanilla roscheri photo taken by Roddy JC Ward

A very attractive orchid that has a widespread range in eastern tropical Africa, from Kenya, Tanzania and Mozambique with one officially recorded record from South Africa. The specimens found in South Africa were found on the shores of Lake Sibaya by Mark Ward in 1983 where herbarium specimens were collected by him on the 05/02/1983 and again on 01/07/1983 which were submitted to the Herbarium at the Royal Botanic Gardens by his father Roddy Ward. I am very fortunate to have been given a live piece of the original plant collected.

Status in South Africa   

Near Threatened* D2 assessed on the 02.09.2005 by L. von Staden and J.E. Victor

Known from one location in South Africa. Potentially threatened by subsistence agriculture, expanding informal settlements and alien plant invasion. The national assessment is downgraded from VU to NT as other subpopulations just across the border in Mozambique could serve as sources of propagules to South African locations.

Note:

This species may be conspecific with Vanilla phalaenopsis Reichenbach f. from the Seychelles and with Vanilla madagascariensis Rolfe from Madagascar, if so, Vanilla phalaenopsis would be the correct name.

Description

Vanilla roscheri is a leafless, terete liana-like climber with green succulent stems up to c. 1.5 cm in diameter with short thin wiry attachment roots at the nodes and at intervals along the length of the stem different feeding roots are send down to the ground where they take up water and nutrient in the leaf litter and soil to sustain the plant. These orchids are not epiphytes but terrestrial orchids that grow in the ground and along the forest floor then climb up into the canopy to get more light to flower and must therefore be planted into sufficiently large pots or in the ground if grown outdoors to do well.

Here one can see the huge amounts of roots sent down by a plant growing in the forest canopy to sustain growth.

Small brownish vestigial leaves up to 3 cm long are present at the nodes on new growth which fall off after a few months.

Here the vestigial leaves are clearly seen on Vanilla roscheri grown in my lounge

A very distinguishing feature of this species are two shallow channels on each side running the length of the vine between the internodes which are up to 15 cm long.

Here one can see one of the two shallow channels on each side the vine of Vanilla roscheri as well as one of the feeder roots and the thin roots used as to attach themselves when climbing into the canopy.

The inflorescence is many-flowered, up to 30 cm long, terminal or at the nodes. Flowers are large and showy, up to 15 cm in diameter, white, more or less flushed with pink, strongly and sweetly scented. Lip funnel-shaped, often salmon-pink or yellowish in the throat. Capsule up to 17.5 cm long

 

Photo of flower of Vanilla roscheri taken by Roddy JC Ward

Habitat

Vanilla roscheri are found growing where it is hot and humid near to the coast in mangrove forest, evergreen scrub, coastal bush and forest, and in grassy fields rocks and scattered trees at elevations in South Africa 1-100 m, elsewhere at elevations of 0 up to 1050 meters

Cultivation

Vanilla roscheri which is easy to grow likes to grow at warm to hot temperatures with high humidity with the lower part of the plant and the roots in shade, the top of the plant in partial shade to full sun for them to flower.

Seed pods of Vanilla roscheri growing on Erythrina latissima in full sun at Lake Sibaya Photo taken by Roddy JC Ward

Vanilla roscheri plants require a large pot filled with a very loose well drained open growing medium with lots of space for climbing. I used to grow mine in very coarse sieved well drained leaf mould containing many sticks and partially decomposed leaves to which can be added some crushed egg or snail shells. I have however found that they grow just as well or better in a very open growing medium of fine medium and course silica sand with a little peat or coconut peat added. It is essential to add good drainage and airholes on the sides at the base of the pot or to place the pot on feet. The plants must be allowed to dry out somewhat before watering. Reduce the watering in the cooler months. They need good air movement and respond well to misting. They respond well to a regular addition of a very weak solution of liquid fertilizers and or a littler slow release fertilizer such as Multicote™ controlled release fertilizer  . Flush out the pot well with clean water from time to time to avoid salt build up.

Vanilla roscheri growing indoors

I feed my orchid plants with soluble inorganic fertilizer used in hydroponics for flower and fruit growth to which I add both humic and fulvic acid, Seagro which is an Organic Plant Food, a nutritious fish emulsion, Marinure® which is a unique biostimulant brown seaweed, Ascophyllum nodosum and Nitrosol, which gives excellent results. I occasionally water my plants with plant growth stimulants derived from sea weed.

The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew
Herbarium Catalogue
Family:	Orchidaceae
Current Name:	Vanilla roscheri Rchb. f.
Collector:	Ward, C.J.; Ward, M.C.	Plant Parts:	Flowers/inflorescence; Fruit
Collector no:	59
Collection Date:	05/02/1983
Country:	South Africa	Habitat:	Light shade; sand termite mound. Dry woodland-forest, mainly just within margin. Frequency; Locally common.
Location:	KwaZulu-Natal Ingwavuma Sibaya lake south west	Plant Description:	Shallowly rooted in litter on sand or pseudo-epiphytic.
Lat and Long:	27 21 S , 32 36 E
General Comments:	Sheet 1. Duplicate Ex Herbarium: University of Durban-Westville, Natal, South Africa.

            

http://www.africanorchids.dk/357-vanilla/386-vanilla-roscheri

http://apps.kew.org/herbcat/detailsQuery.do?barcode=K000392070

https://orchids.fandom.com/wiki/Vanilla_roscheri

https://www.mozambiqueflora.com/speciesdata/species.php?species_id=180910

http://redlist.sanbi.org/species.php?species=2771-1

Article written by Michael Hickman on the 09.03.21 edited and reposted on this blog

27.04.24

Please visit my websites at

www.ecoman.co.za

www.hlem.co.za

https://www.hlem.co.za/indigenous_plants/plants.html

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Chlorophytum angulicaule

 

Chlorophytum angulicaule is a local indigenous plant that belongs to the plant family Agavaceae. It is virtually unknown to the horticultural industry although it is closely related to the globally very well-known and popular Hen and Chickens or spider plant, Chlorophytum comosum, which is also native to the same region.

Flowers of Chlorophytum angulicaule 

Description

Chlorophytum angulicaule is a fairly large plant that is easy to distinguish from the other local Chlorophytum species by its much lighter waxy green leaves, under the leaves the parallel veins are very well defined which are interspaced with light silverish bands of wax.

The leaves on my plants average out at 500mm in length and 30 mm wide. 

The flowers which are numerous that a borne on 1.2 m inflorescences measure 30 mm in both height and width.

Distribution

Chlorophytum angulicaule  is mostly in found growing in the provinces Eastern Cape, Free State, KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo, Mpumalanga, Northwest  Province,  in South Africa and has also been recorded from Mocuba in Mozambique.

Habitat.

Grows in full sun in grassland.

History of my plants

Way back in 2008 I was given an un-named tray of Chlorophytum seedlings of this plant, the mother plant having been found growing in grassland near to the Africa Centre the home of the  Africa Health Research Institute in Mtubatuba, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa.

I recently positively identified these plants at the KwaZulu-Natal Herbarium which is located adjacent to the Durban Botanical Gardens as Chlorophytum angulicaule.

These seedlings which I planted in my garden in Mount Moreland grew very rapidly and soon I was able to propagate numerous plants by dividing the large robust rhizome.

Over the years I have given plants of  Chlorophytum angulicaule to a number of people who in turn have multiplied them and have passed them on in turn.

Cultivation.

I have noted that in cultivation if watered Chlorophytum angulicaule will remain vegetative throughout the year but if allowed to dry out they do not die but simply become dormant in the winter until the spring rains arrive.

I have noted that Chlorophytum angulicaule grows equally well in the heavy black clay soils in Mount Moreland as they do in sandy soils provided that they are supplied with enough nutrients either in the form of compost or fertilizer.

Chlorophytum angulicaule produces large amounts of large white flowers throughout the year if they are watered and are provided with enough nutrients which attract a huge variety of native bees.

Propagation

Chlorophytum angulicaule grows easily from seed, they can also be easily and rapidly multiplied by division of the large rhizome into fairly small pieces.

Use in ornamental landscaping.

Chlorophytum angulicaule is a ground cover plant that is very well suited to be used in ornamental horticulture in both gardens planted solely to local indigenous plants as well as to exotic ornamental plants.

Chlorophytum angulicaule is a neat and tidy plant that grows quickly and suppresses weeds very well.

It is also a very valuable addition to a wild indigenous garden and rehabilitation projects because of the large numbers and varieties of indigenous bees that it feeds.

written by Michael Hickman on 28.03.24

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 Aerangis mystacidii

Description

Aerangis mystacidii is a fairly robust, small epiphytic angraecoid, with woody stems up to 30 mm long. Leaves spear-shaped, unequally bilobed and up to 150 mm long. They produce one to several lateral inflorescences, horizontal or hanging, up to 200 mm long.

Distribution and habitat.

Aerangis mystacidii is found in South Africa, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Malawi and Zambia. The plants are found most often in riverine forest, where they can occur in large numbers  often very low down near to, or overhanging water.

Distribution in South Africa

Aerangis mystacidii  if found growing along the east coast from central to northern Eastern Cape coast, up to northern KwaZulu Natal and inland through Mpumulanga into Limpopo.

Typical habitat

Fairly common in subtropical coastal and submontane forests, from sea level to 800m.

Flowering

Aerangis mystacidii typically flower between February and June.  In Durban flower spikes start appearing with shortening day length in February, followed by  a pendulous inflorescence with white flowers tinged with pink, which open in May  lasting into June. The spur is long and slender, up to 80mm in length. The flowers are fragrant in the evening giving off an exotic perfume.

Aerangis mystacidii seedlings, if well cared for and have vigorous growth, produce their first blooms when they are fairly small.

Cultivation

Aerangis mystacidii  is very easy to grow , ideal for a beginner, which does best in low light conditions with very little or no direct sunlight. In extreme cases if the plants receive too much light or direct sunlight their leaves become very reduced and turn orange. 

They grow best on mounts where the roots get plenty of light and air movement and where the long pendulous inflorescences are free to hang.

Aerangis mystacidii  can also be grown on a grown medium of large chunks of bark in pots preferably the clear plastic pots used for growing Phalaenopsis. I have had great success growing then on cubes of both teak wood as well as balau wood when grown in pots. Unfortunately, when it comes to flowering time the pots need to be  placed on a stand to allow for the long pendulous inflorescence to develop fully without damage.

Feeding

Aerangis mystacidii  will grow without feeding but will not flourish. On the other hand given regular feeding they put on strong lush growth and produce more flower spikes with more flowers per flower spike.

I feed my plants a regular feeding with a variety of liquid feeds being, Nitrosol, Seagro, Marinure Seaweed fertiliser which I feed at one quarter of the recommended dose rate, as well as black tea and rooibos tea.

Hardiness

Aerangis mystacidii  are very hardy plants that are very difficult to kill by poor cultural practices. For instance sometime between March 2021 and June 2021 I accidently watered my plants with rainwater contaminated with a herbicide that must have leached in minute amounts from the micropores in a plastic bucket I was storing it in.

By the time I saw the signs of herbicide poisoning on fast growing Begonia dregei and established the source of the poisoning most of my orchids had been contaminated. Slowly the affects of the herbicide poisoning became evident in particular the roots began to die and new roots were badly deformed. 

Photo of root damage ‎ taken on 04 ‎May ‎2022 plant one

Photo of root damage taken on ‎04 ‎May ‎2022 plant two

Later flowering was affected, the plants producing deformed flowers that were dropped before opening. Slowly but surely most of my plants have begun to recover producing the first undeformed roots and un-deformed flower spikes.

 

Photo of root damage taken on ‎23 February 2024 ‎plant one

Photo of root damage taken on ‎23 February 2024 ‎plant two

 Lesson learned

The lesson I learned from this is that the growth of orchids are affected by very low dose rates of herbicides therefore also clearly very low dose rates of nutrients must also have an effect on the growth of orchid plants.

 written by Michael Hickman on 23.02.24

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